Welcome to Daily Food, our new blog about what else; people, plates and places™ revolving around good food.
Thursday, March 11, 2010 That's Gaelic for Saint Patrick's Day or St. Paddy's. It's one of those days of the year where we all wear green, feel a wee bit Irish and spread good cheer. In honor of next week's holiday; Pionta Guinness, le do thoil. Sláinte! That's, a pint of Guinness please and cheers!
Lamb Shanks and Potatoes Recipe
image, American Lamb
Wednesday, March 10, 2010 If Ireland were to have a Queen, then without question she would be Myrtle Allen. I had the honor to visit with Myrtle while filming in Ireland. What did I learn from this amazing lady? That necessity is the mother of invention and that we become what we are destined to be by applying ourselves in pursuit of excellence.
Myrtle sums up how it all began, "I suppose it all started in 1932 when Ivan, aged 17, came to help Wilson Strangman to run his farm at Shanagarry. Times were hard but he and Ivan diversified their production brilliantly into alternative crops. These were and still are the basis of our cuisine. In 1943, in wartime, large quantities of tomatoes, mushrooms, cucumbers and apples were being exported from the farm to England and Wales. The surplus came into my kitchen along with cream, butter and eggs and slowly I learned how to cook with them, guided by my gourmet husband. In 1964 I felt confident enough to open our dining room as a restaurant for dinner on five nights a week. I knew our food was good but I didn't expect to get so many awards. As farm prices went down we expanded our rooms and restaurant business."
Myrtle Allen and her late husband Ivan founded Ballymaloe House in 1964. They set out to use only fresh produce from their garden and greenhouses, meat reared locally, and fresh fish from nearby Ballycotton. The menu is written each afternoon, based on what is fresh and seasonally available. Dining at Ballymaloe is simply perfection, served in a friendly, knowledgeable way. ♣
Myrtle Allen has been honored with every food and hospitality award. The National University of Ireland has conferred the award of Doctor of Laws for her contribution to Cuisine in Ireland and for giving the Irish people the confidence to believe in their own resources.
Myrtle has served as an exemplary role model for all to follow. While today, going green and organic is all the rage, Myrtle had set the standard decades ago. Simply, the culinary world is a better place under her tutelage. Today, there is so much pride in Ireland’s cuisine and largely due to her efforts; her columns in the Irish Times, cookbook author, restaurateur/ hotelier and influence as a cookery teacher.
I send my appreciation over the pond to an incredible lady who inspired so many by setting such high standards in the culinary arts. When she is crowned Queen, I would surely serve in her court.
Visit Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry, County Cork, Ireland. Or, at least take the time for a virtual visit and read up on this amazing family with three generations running the Ballymaloe enterprises.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010 Spanakopita is a kind of börek, aka burek; a savory pastry filled with spinach, feta cheese, onions and egg. No matter where in world it's from or what you call it, this appetizer or hors d'oeuvre is always a winner. And yes, go ahead, eat it with your fingers.
About Filo: excerpt from Know Your Fire cookbook by George Hirsch with Marie Bianco
Filo or phyllo dough is comprised of tissue-thin layers of pastry especially popular in Greek cuisine. They can be used for both sweet and savory dishes. Filo is especially delicate, and once it dries out it becomes brittle and cannot be used. Work with a small portion of filo at a time and keep the rest under a damp paper towel or plastic wrap to keep it moist.
Rarely is a single layer of filo used. As each sheet is brushed with butter, it’s usually sprinkled with fine breadcrumbs or nuts to keep the layers slightly separated.
Filo is sold in Greek markets and in the freezer section of most supermarkets. If you buy frozen filo, it should be defrosted in the refrigerator and used within 2 to 3 days.
image credit, George Hirsch
Spanakopita is a great make ahead savory. If consumed the same day, cover well and refrigerate until baking - just before serving. If making a couple days ahead, freeze unbaked until before serving. No need to defrost, just increase oven temperature to 400 degrees F. and bake direct from frozen.
Spanakopita
recipe by George Hirsch | Makes 12
12 sheets filo
1 package frozen chopped spinach, thawed & drain well*
1/2 cup sweet onion, chopped fine
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon each dried oregano, basil, thyme
1 large egg, beaten
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tablesooon fresh mint, chopped
juice from 1/2 fresh lemon
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup fresh or dried bread crumbs
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup sweet butter, melted
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
*Place spinach in a wire-mesh strainer or fine colander and squeeze the excess water out of the spinach.
Place egg in a medium bowl. Add sea salt, pepper, oregano, basil, and thyme. Mix in fresh mint, olive oil and lemon juice. Add onion, feta cheese, spinach and mix well until combine. Set aside.
Unwrap the filo dough and cover sheets with plastic wrap while preparing to keep from drying out.
Lay one sheet of filo on a large cutting board and gently brush with melted butter. Sprinkle a small amount of breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese between layers. Place a second filo sheet on top of the first and brush with butter. Repeat breadcrumbs and cheese. Repeat one more time until you have a stack of three filo sheets with butter brushed between the layers.
Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel cutter, cut filo sheets lengthwise into three strips. Place approximately two tablespoons of the spinach filling one inch from the bottom end of each strip.
Take the bottom right corner of the strip between your thumb and finger and fold over spinach filling to the left to make a triangle. Gently pull up the bottom left corner and fold up to make a second triangle. Continue folding until you reach the top. Place the triangle, seam-side down, on baking sheet. Brush the completed triangle lightly with melted butter.
Repeat with the remaining strips of filo sheets until the entire filling used.
Place triangles two inches apart on baking sheet.
Bake for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Monday, March 8, 2010 What is the first sign of spring to you? Daffodils, birds singing, or is it the return of Major League Baseball? If it’s baseball, then that means there’s a seventh inning stretch with the legendary song "Take Me Out to the Ball Game" (by Jack Norworth 1908) accompanied by consumption of one of America’s oldest snacks. The popularity of that song, still sung today, with the line “buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack” will be heard throughout baseball stadiums in America this month.
But Cracker Jack is so much more than candy caramel-coated popcorn and peanuts. There is also that special little surprise in each box which still brings smiles to faces on kids of all ages. Did you know these one-of-a-kind prizes are sought after by collectors fetching north of 50k dollars? Hey that’s cool! - which by the way is the meaning behind the term ‘Cracker Jack’ in the 1890’s. I do think the name Cracker Jack is fitting, somehow ‘Cool Jack’ just doesn't have the same ring.
Watch this classic TV commercial from the 1960’s featuring Jack Gilford.
Sunday, March 7, 2010 Oscar Tschirky, maître d’hôtel of Delmonico’s Restaurant and the Waldorf Astoria in NYC is known as the creator of such popular classic dishes as Waldorf Salad, Veal Oscar, Eggs Benedict and Thousand Island Dressing. It may just be the name implies thousands of recipes - for this dressing, and rumors abound as to the true creator. I can assure you it was not Kraft or Wish-Bone though. This is the story I believe to be true or Oscar of The Waldorf has the best PR agency ever!
At the turn of the century, self-made multi-millionaire and hotel magnate George C. Boldt, (I have my own Thousand Island story, but it doesn’t involve dressing, so it will have to wait) owner of the New York City's Waldorf Astoria enjoyed vacationing in the 1000 Islands. Mr. Boldt and his wife Louise enjoyed this area of the St. Lawrence River region so much so that George had Boldt Castle built for his wife. Nice guy. He would entertain many wealthy friends and business associates on the island.
Many times Oscar accompanied Mr. Boldt on his trips to the 1000 Islands and to George Boldt's Castle. On one trip aboard the yacht, Oscar improvised with the ingredients he had aboard the yacht, and concocted the dressing for which the region is now known for around the globe. Afterwards, Mr. Boldt started serving the dressing at his hotels.
So where are these islands of dressing fame? The 1000 Islands Region encompasses both sides of the US and Canadian border along the St. Lawrence River and the eastern shores of Lake Ontario. The region takes its name from the more than 1000 islands that dot the lake and river along this international waterway. The region extends from Kingston to Cornwall on the Canadian side, and from Oswego to Massena on the US side; reaching inland to the foothills of the Adirondack mountains to embrace the communities that are west and north of the Adirondack Park, and the four NY Counties of Oswego, Jefferson, Lewis and St. Lawrence.
The wide appeal of this dressing has gone far beyond elegant salads served aboard yachts on the St. Lawrence River. Burger joints have topped their meat patties for years with this special sauce - remember that jingle? Then there’s of course my preferred In-N-Out-Burgers, where all burgers come standard with Thousand Island dressing. BTW, a secret menu item called "Animal Style"; fries come with Thousand Island Dressing in addition to grilled onions and melted cheese. But when I hear Thousand Island Dressing I think of a dish with a little more of a classical take; like the topping on a Dungeness Crab or Shrimp Louis. I am sure that would make Oscar smile!
Could this be Oscar’s classic Thousand Island Dressing Recipe? It just might be.
Take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one-half cup whipped cream, add small amount of Tarragon vinegar, one-half teaspoonful of Imperial Sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. This sauce can be served with any kind of salad."--Kansas City Star [Missouri], November 26, 1912
images; bibliotheque publique et universitaire
Thursday, March 4, 2010 It' a perfect marriage between well-aged Cognac Ferrand oak casks, artisanal rum and France. And it makes perfect sense. Ferrand has supplied Caribbean rum producers with their coveted cognac casks for years. So why not combine the art, resources and passion to create a collection of the best rum and present it to market. Keep in mind this is the same house whose Collection Privee 1914 demands $1500. The Plantation Rum Collection consists of a range of ten of the finest English style, Spanish-style and Rhum agricole rums, from $40. Did I mention double aged? After the rum has aged in the ideal climactic setting of the caribbean the rum casks are shipped to France to age some more, 18th century style at Cognac Ferrand's Chateau de Bonbonet for an exceptional finish. Santé.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010 Yes, Rhubarb is a tart vegetable used to make tasty desserts and sauces. The mere use of the word rhubarb can have many meanings when not presented on a menu:
Here’s an easier to swallow meaning. . .This recipe is always a crowd pleaser and that's no bunch of rhubarb.
Rhubarb Crisp | chefgeorgehirsch.com
recipe by George Hirsch | Makes 4-6 servings
4-6 cups rhubarb stalks, cut into 1/2 inch piecesMix flour, butter, ground cinnamon until it makes a smooth pastry dough. Add oatmeal and brown sugar, crumble together and place on top of marinated rhubarb in baking dish.
Bake in a preheated oven at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until top is light brown, the top is crisp and rhubarb is tender. Serve warm with coffee ice cream.
Tuesday, March 2, 2010 It just seems fitting, breakfast for champions. Congrats to Hockey Canada.
Maple Gold, pure natural syrup is tapped from maple trees in Quebec, Canada. Maple Gold is part of the CITADELLE Producers' Cooperative housing other familiar and coveted Canadian brands such as Camp, Citadella, Cleary's and O'Canada. Did you know Canada is responsible for nearly 70% of global supply of this golden maple nectar?
Well I hope this inspires you to have a side of My Steamy Belguim Waffles with that thick and rich syrup. This post brings back great memories of summers in Canada with my family and we would always return from Canada with a tin maple syrup.
Maple Gold, Product of Canada
Monday, March 1, 2010 Buying food and reading labels can be a dizzying task. One can't help but be overrun with questions like - Is this good for me and my family? Is it safe to eat? Where did this come from? Is this sustainable? Reading labels can work most of the time, but what if there’s no label; as with fish? You would think if a fish has been around since the beginning of time and spawned billions of eggs - there wouldn’t be any problem, right? But not so fast, too much of anything can be harmful, even cod.
click image for Seafood Watch List for 2010
Here's a solution - Seafood Watch, provided by the same folks who operate the Monterey Bay Aquarium; which by the way is a fantastic experience to visit in itself. I’ve had the occasion to visit for both leisure and as a keynote speaker and celebrity chef a few years back to kick off the Monterey Food & Wine Classic.
Pardon me while I digress, I will get right back to cod...While I have you in Monterey, I want to mention a one degree of separation between John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row (the gritty side of life in this seaside post depression novel) and lovely Monterey. One of my friend’s families was the basis of a character in Steinbeck's tome. It is also that same good friend, Bert Cutino from the famed Tortilla Flat neighborhood on Canary Row who owns the famed Sardine Factory, a must stop when in town.
Now, back to the cod. With it’s mild flavor, low fat content and a dense, flaky white flesh, it's no wonder cod is one of the most common fish used for fish & chips along with haddock and plaice. But, did you know it is currently at risk from over fishing in UK, Canada and other Atlantic waters? So be in the know with Seafood Watch. Use this guide to find ocean-friendly alternatives to seafood on the Seafood Watch “Avoid” list. It’s a good thing to use discretion and follow their lead so in the future when we are calling all cods, there are still some around.
Avoid: Cod: Atlantic, Iceland and Northeast Arctic (trawled), and Pacific (imported)
Best Choices: Cobia (US farmed), Cod- Pacific (trap, hook-and-line, longline from AK)
Good Alternatives: Cod- Atlantic (Northeast Arctic and Iceland), Cod- Pacific (U.S. trawl)
Sunday, February 28, 2010 Contrary to what you might believe, the tart quiche originated on German soil and not French. The widely popular classic of French cuisine heralds from an area of the medieval German kingdom Lothringen, aka Lorraine, France.
Years ago the pie was made with just eggs, cream, smoked bacon and bread dough. The word Küche or Küchen is German for cake; believed to be the origin of the word Quiche.
Keep in mind, the Lorraine region has influence from Germany as well as France; so depending on who you ask or where you sampling your Quiche from - you may receive a slight variation of the recipe. Today a Quiche Lorraine is expected to contain cheese and onions, as well. The use of Gruyère cheese is a relatively new addition to quiche in France. Oh and don't expect to taste any Gruyère in your quiche in Lorraine; they are purists - sans the cheese. Too bad, it's a really good modification to the French recipe. In Germany expect onions and no cheese; and it's called Zwiebelkuchen.
I find it interesting to know the classical origin of a dish, but what is more important when making a quiche or any dish for that matter is - what influences the taste and texture of a dish. So for me the appeal is not to stick to its classical roots, but how the melding of cultures and the additions of flavorful savory ingredients, in this case, like onions and cheese have improved on this dish.
As for Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche, the best selling book by Bruce Feirstein, which satirized stereotypes of masculinity; I can assure you based upon all the quiches I have made - real men DO eat quiche!
Tips:
Add 1 Tablespoon flour mixed into filling prior to adding egg/ milk mixture to help set a filling that is too moist, example: tomatoes, mushrooms, etc..
To prevent a raw bottom of quiche, pre-bake pastry dough Blind (8-12 minutes with no color) before filling.
Bake directly on an oven rack. Baking quiche on a cookie or sheet pan will cause the tart or pie bottom to be raw.
Feel free to improvise with flavors, seasonings, vegetables, meats and seafood. Just keep in mind that adding very moist fillings such as mushrooms, tomatoes, etc will affect the custard of eggs and milk or cream.
Better than Quiche Lorraine
recipe by George Hirsch | Makes one 9-inch tart
Prepare George’s piecrust the night prior or at least 1 hour ahead; or use store bought piecrust. Roll out pastry into a 9-inch tart or pie pan. Pre-bake pastry dough Blind (8-12 minutes with no color) before filling.
For the Filling:
1 cup (approximately 6 slices) thick cut or slab bacon, cut into thin strips-'lardons'
1/2 cup sweet white onion, sliced thin
2 green onions, chopped
3 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups half-half or milk
Pinch of sea salt and fresh grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon each hot sauce, fresh grated black pepper
1 cup Gruyere or good Swiss cheese, shredded
Optional:
2 Tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped
2 Tablespoons Arugula, chopped
Preheat oven to 375F.
Pre heat a sauté pan to medium heat, cook bacon until brown and crisp. Remove bacon pieces and drain on a paper towel. Drain bacon fat from pan; add both onions to pan and cook for 2-3 minutes to slightly soften. Allow bacon and onions to cool.
Place bacon, onion, parsley, Arugula, and Swiss cheese on top of blind baked pastry crust.
In a bowl whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, nutmeg, hot sauce and pepper and pour the mixture over onion and bacon tart.
Bake for 20 minutes, lower temperature to 350F; total baking time is 30 minutes or until egg custard is set. Allow to cool slightly and serve warm or at room temperature.
Thursday, February 25, 2010 That is- during the Renaissance. Have you ever had sfogliatelle? It just happens to be the very first pastry I learned to bake; let me add labor intensive to make. I have loved it ever since. As you know, I don't gravitate towards chocolate, mouses or cakes. The sfogliatelle is anything but that. It's the right mix of many, many layers of thin flakey dough, stuffed with a citron semolina and ricotta filling; shaped like a clam shell. It has a bit of crunch with a dense custard textured center.
Sampling purely for research purposes, (ahem) I find it difficult to decide - is sfogliatelle better in Rome or Amalfi? Well New Yorkers, I admit this Neapoliatan pastry tastes just as good in the Bronx, NY. But please do yourself a favor and go to a real authentic Italian pastry shop. Tastes best, served warm with a good espresso.
sfogliatelle
Wednesday, February 24, 2010 In honor of National Chili Day - Feb. 25th, here's my Chili Cornbread Recipe as a side dish for your big pot of Chili in Beer Sauce. BTW - my cornbread has got a little kick. Enjoy!
image © Alina Solovyova-Vincent istock
George’s Chili in Beer Sauce Recipe
Chili Cornbread
recipe by George Hirsch | Makes 1 loaf
;)
From George Hirsch Living it UP! cookbook & TV Series
6 ounces cornmeal, fine grind maize
5 ounces all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 Tablespoons sugar
1 Tablespoon honey
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup plain low fat yogurt
2 ounces milk
1 whole egg, beaten slightly
4 Tablespoons olive oil
2 jalapeno chilies, split de seeded & chopped
4 cloves caramelized garlic, crushed
1 green onion or scallion, chopped
1/2 red pepper, roasted and chopped
1 Tablespoon sesame or poppy seeds, toasted
1 Tablespoon fresh cilantro leaves, rough chopped
Pre heat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 10 inch cake pan or iron skillet.
Mix the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and honey. Add the yogurt, milk, egg, and olive oil. Combine the jalapenos, garlic, green onion, or scallion, red pepper, cilantro, and half the sesame seeds, then stir in.
Mix all the ingredients until the dough comes together, use caution to not over mix.
Place the cornbread into a greased cake pan or iron skillet. Sprinkle the remaining sesame seeds on top. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes.
Cool slightly before removing the bread from the pan.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010 How about entertaining with a bit of Northern Spain/ South of France influence? Stock up on Olives and Anchovies. Tip: Give Arbequina olives a try - they are grown in Catalonia, Spain and have a buttery flavor with hints of pepper.
available at specialty markets like Dean and Deluca
Tapenade comes from the word tapeno which means capers in Provence. The addition of sun dried tomatoes adds a little sweetness.
Olive Tapenade
Recipe by George Hirsch | Makes 1 cup
2/3 cup black oil cured olives (Kalamata or Nicoise), pitted and finely chopped
2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and finely chopped
4 cloves caramelized garlic
2 Tablespoons capers, drained, rinsed under cold tap water and finely chopped
2 small sun dried tomatoes, finely chopped
4 Tablespoons virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 basil leaves , chopped
In a bowl, mix together the olives, anchovies, garlic, capers, sun dried tomatoes, oil, pepper, and water. Spread Tapenade on toasted French baguette bread, top with fresh basil, or serve with your favorite sandwich.
Monday, February 22, 2010 Well here's one more reason to think of warmer weather in February; Grom and their acclaimed Gelato and Fruit Sorbets. Grom's Gelato tastes like I walked-up to a Gelateria on Via Veneto, but the odd thing is - I'm in New York. How is this possible? It's a great story.
Two Torin partners, Martinetti and Grom fused their passion and intentions to make the best artisanal Gelato and make it available to the world, mindfully. Sounds simple, but it's not. To producer food this way, it is actually harder. They simplified everything in the ingredients; adding no preservatives or flavor enhancers. Slow food is the basis for their local ingredients. Grom takes great pride in telling you what's in their product and also go through the effort to list what you are not eating. Each ingredient has an address of origin and a story behind it. The milk is from Savigliano, the peaches from Canale, the almonds from Sicily, and strawberries from Ribera - you get the picture. The partners have also acquired land to produce some of there own ingredients.
In just a matter of seven years Grom has launched a few shops in New York; in The Village and on The Westside, with another on the way. Even with Grom expanding, Martinetti and Grom have stressed the importance of not getting too big, shunning the word franchise.
The word on Grom pistacchio, it's the best - you just have to try it.
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